Due to the unique properties of leather and suede raw materials, the process requirements and equipment in the sewing process of garments are also very different from those of ordinary fabrics. This article mainly introduces the problems that leather and suede should pay attention to in terms of cutting, sewing, etc., the requirements to be achieved, and the treatment methods used.
Leather and suede are very high-end and beautiful fabrics with a variety of weights, styles and colors. There are many varieties of clothing, including outerwear and underwear. The outerwear has leather robes, coats, jackets, skirts, leather pants, etc., and underwear also has vests, shirts, shorts and so on. There are matching up and down, and there are also matching with other clothing.
Leather and suede fabric features
Real leather is treated and nitrated animal skin. The clothing is made of materials. Zhangda, thin plate, and high-quality animal skin without serious damage can be used to make clothing. Because animal skin resources are not as easy to obtain as cotton, hemp, wool, and chemical fiber raw materials, and the number is small, the selection rate is low, and the technical requirements are high, so it is more precious. The leather used to make the garment is a soft leather variety, which is a natural multi-layered interlaced reticular fibrous structure. At the same time, it is quite sturdy. This soft and stiff uniform is the unique performance of leather garments. Another feature of leather garments is durability. Because leather fibers are three-dimensional, they are resistant to folding, abrasion and pressure. They are generally longer than any textile fiber garment.
Suede is also a kind of leather. It is a suede fabric made of chemical fiber raw material by friction to produce suede fabric, much like real suede. In order to make the garments get the best results, the garments sewn with these fabrics have a simple line that reflects the high-grade and elegant feel of the fabric. Whether it is real leather, real suede or faux leather and suede, the texture is relatively tight and hard, so it should be looser when choosing the style of the clothing.
Sewing requirements for leather
Since the leather is easy to wrinkle, it should be rolled into a cylinder when storing the leather before sewing. Check the irregularity of the leather and the presence of holes before the discharge. The suede is on the suede side. Discharge. Smooth leather and heavy calfskin are not suede or slanted, so frontal discharge is generally used. In order to make the garment have good stability, the garment is to be discharged in the straight direction of the leather, and the accessories can be discharged at will. Adhere or press the paper on the leather with a bonding paper or a heavy object, or use a smudge to apply it to the opposite side of the leather, then cut it with a sharp cut or a single-sided blade, such as figure 1.
Since the stitches give permanent holes to the leather, be careful when sewing. If you are unfamiliar with the style of the garment to be sewn, you should first try it with a thin fabric. For leather, the seams of the garment are critical. First, clean the sewing machine and adjust it accurately. The number of needle needles should be selected according to the weight of the leather. The sewing stitches are usually 3 to 4 needles per cm. At the same time, the pressure of the presser foot should be checked. The pressure should be smaller than that of the general fabric; the sewing should be slowly stitched. Do not tighten the leather, do not use it to return the needle to prevent the leather from being torn; be sure to tie the knot after sewing.
When sewing, the seam layer can be fixed by a tape or a return pin, and the overlapping seams can be bonded together with a rubber agent, as shown in Fig. 2. Some seams are reinforced with strips and twill strips to prevent the elongation of the leather. In order to eliminate the bloat at the seam, a single-sided blade can be used to obliquely cut the seam edge of the leather, as shown in Figure 3. In order to make the seam flat, the flat seam and the rubber agent can be used, and the hammer is used to tap and separate, as shown in Fig. 4. This will make the seams flat and will not leave marks on the appearance of the garment.
There are three main ways of leather seams: 1 flat seam: trim the seam of the upper or lower piece, and then stitch it with the seaming method, then glue it with rubber, and flatten it at 0.3cm from the trimming edge. Sew, and then sew a line from 0.6cm, as shown in Figure 5 a; 2 stack seam: sew a flat seam at 0.3cm from the trimming edge, as shown in Figure 5 b; 3 inlay seam : Cut a part of the seam on both sides of the piece, and then cut a leather strip according to the length of the seam, the width of which is twice the sewing width plus 1.3cm. Then place the leather strip between the two seams and add a rubber agent, and finally stitch the two sides, as shown in Figure 5 c. Note that the rubber agent is difficult to remove, so the rubber line should not be adhered to the seam line.
Leather garment parts processing method
For seams, pockets and welt seams
To trim the two-layer seam first, align the two trimmed edges from the reverse side of the leather, bond them with adhesive, and then flatten the seam by 0.3 cm from the edge, as shown in Figure 6, a. Finally, a flat seam is sewn at 0.6 cm from the side, as shown in Figure 6 b.
The leather buttonhole is unique, such as the sewing of the women's roller buttonhole
Firstly, according to the mark hole of the button hole, a rectangular opening having a width of about 1 cm, each button hole is cut into two leather belts having a length of 1.3 cm and a width of 3.8 cm, and the leather belt is folded, trimmed and flattened. Then, place two folded leather belts in the middle of the buttonholes and apply a rubber agent flattening around them, as shown in Figure 7, a. Then, use a flat seam to sew along the rectangular opening on the outside, and then sew the buttonhole to trim the leather in the stitch, as shown in Figure 7b.
The zipper is similar to other fabrics.
For thick leather, it can be treated with flat seams. The following sewing method can also be used: before the seam, cut a small 1.3cm long mouth on the cross on the leather and cut it on the top layer. After dropping 1.3cm, the zipper is glued with the adhesive tape, stitched along the trimming edge, and another layer of leather is overlaid on the zipper, and the seam line is aligned with the adhesive tape to stick it. Sewing starts at 0.6~1.3cm. When sewing, it should be sewed from the top of the zipper to the bottom. At the bottom of the zipper, you should hit the needle back and forth, and then sew a circle along the trimming edge, as shown in Fig. 8. The zipper of the outer zipper is first trimmed on both sides of the leather, and the width is until the zipper teeth can be exposed. Then the zipper is placed on the underside of the trimming edge and taped, and then sewn to the garment, as shown in Fig. 8. In b.
Sewing of leather and suede
This sewing is easier. The depth of the welt is generally 2.5 ~ 5.0cm, first use the scratching powder to draw the edge line, and then apply the rubber agent, then fold the seam seam, fold the edge and iron and start sewing, the sewing stitch length is generally 2 to 3 needles per cm, and finally ironed with a low temperature dry iron. Ironing should be lined with ironing cloth.
Sewing requirements for chemical fiber suede
The chemical fiber suede and the real suede have the same beautiful appearance, and have excellent properties such as softness, wrinkle resistance, strong color fastness and mechanical washing. Such fabrics can also be joined by conventional seaming or overlapping seaming, or a combination of the two. Most chemical fiber suede garments are required to be used in the clip. Since the fabric can be iron-ironed, it is generally possible to use an adhesive lining. The two layers of fabric are usually bonded together by a hot-melt web before sewing.
Since chemical fiber suede is a suede fabric with smooth hair and inverted hair, it should be noted when cutting, and the side of the suede is used for discharging. In order to save fabrics, the welts and small pieces can be used regardless of the direction, which saves fabric. Although the stitches left on the fabric will disappear with the stitching of the fabric, it is best to use a pin on the seam to fix or tape the pattern on the fabric. In order to make the seams neatly cut, use sharp Cut the scissors and use the scratches to make a sample.
When sewing, the stitches are 4 to 5 needles per cm, the needles are generally 9 or 11 fine needles, the sewing thread is made of silk or polyester thread, and the buttonhole is available with strands and 16 or 18 stitches. Due to the hard texture of the fabric, if the needle is hung on the finger during sewing, the fabric should be fixed with adhesive tape or return pin when sewing, or the artificial seam can be used within 3mm of the seam at the seam. In order to avoid sharp wrinkles, the last four stitches at the overlap of the fabric can be sewn into a very small tapered shape point, then cut in the sharp 25mm, and a piece under the garment side. Paper strips to eliminate the traces on the front of the fabric, the side of the province can also be fixed on the fabric with flat seams or bonds, as shown in Figure 9. In order to prevent the wrinkles of the stitches, the fabrics on the front and back of the presser foot are tightened during sewing, and the feeding is as uniform as possible. When ironing, the temperature of the iron is adjusted to the chemical fiber file, and an ironing cloth is placed on the opposite side of the fabric. Ironing. If it is necessary to iron the front of the fabric, it should be lined with a piece of chemical fiber suede.
There are two ways of seaming: 1 ordinary seam: first stitch and then flatten the seam with a wooden clapper, or put a 6mm wide hot melt mesh belt on the edge of the seam to press and stick the seam. Hold together, as shown in Figure 10 a. The seams can be flat or double-sided, as shown in Figure 10, b, c. Ordinary seams are often used for sleeves, collars, collars, crotch and trousers. 2 stack seams: If the seams and shoulder seams are the back panels of the front panel, the seams of the shoulders overlap the shoulders on the front and back panels. These seams are usually flat seams. At the same time, this seaming method should be considered when cutting, which can save the materials used in clothing. The 15 mm seam was trimmed from the overlap of the fabrics during manufacture, as shown in Figure 11. Use a row of powder to draw a seam line on the front side of the fabric, and a 6 mm wide hot melt tape is sandwiched between the two layers of the fabric for 2 to 3 seconds, or a false seam tape is sewn on the outside of the fabric bottom layer. Be careful not to sew the false seams. Then, a flat seam is made at a distance of 3 mm from the seam line, and finally the seam is closed, as shown in Fig. 12.
Method for processing chemical fiber suede garment parts
First, the lapel, the front sill, the collarless collar and the cuffs can be stitched by a general sewing method. In order to get a better appearance, you can use a normal flat seam, first trim the neckline or the welt, and then sculpt the front. When the back side of the piece is flattened, it can be twisted on the front side. When the collar of the lead seat is stitched, all the seams can be trimmed off, and the neckline lining is trimmed 6mm smaller than the neckline fabric. After the neckline lining is bonded to the collar, the opposite sides of the two layers are overlapped and the stitching is After sewing a fixed stop at 1.3mm on the collar, all the seams of the collar and the lining collar are trimmed, and then the collar is overlaid on the collar, the collar is inserted into the collar, and finally along the collar. The upper side is treated with a narrow mouth. The collar and opening of the garment are stitched with flat seams, inserted into the collar and stitched with flat seams, as shown in Figure 13.
2. When cutting the sleeve fork, attach the reverse side to the opposite side of the sleeve, then split the fork along the center line, close to the edge line along the edge, and stitch the stitch to the opening. The stitch should be sharp. After the flat will be served. The sleeves should be cut clean, all the seams should be trimmed, then cut in half, the cuff lining should be trimmed 6mm more than the cuffs, and the back side will be glued to the upper cuffs, then the sleeves will be overlapped and glued. Fitted on the side of the cuff, stitch the entire sleeve with a seam, as shown in Figure 14.
Third, the stitching of the patch pocket is to trim the seam head 15mm first. The pocket without the liner should be cut along the fold line of the pocket, and then the back surface is stitched to the mouth of the bag with a flat seam. Finally, it is fitted with a flat seam. Go to the clothing, as shown in Figure 15 a. Lined pockets, cut flat seams from the edges of the lining, and sew the pockets onto the garment, as shown in Figure 15b. The stitching of the pocket cover is to first cut out the two layers of the cover and trim off all the seams, then bond the reverse and back sides, and then sew the sides and bottom of the flap with a flat seam. Finally, the bag cover is sewn to the garment, as shown in c in Figure 15.
Fourth, the suture of the belt is first trimmed off the head of the waist and the end of the tail, and then the suture is stitched to the opposite side of the outer belt, and the belt is overlapped on the seam of the waist of the garment, and then stitched along the side with a flat seam, then Fold the belt to the opposite side, and make a flat seam from the outside of the belt at 6mm. If necessary, you can sew along the belt, as shown in Figure 16. The sewing of the zipper is basically similar to that of leather.
5. There are three kinds of buttonhole sewing methods for chemical fiber suede: 1) The edge of the buttonhole is replaced by a rubber mesh instead of the rubber. The other methods are the same as the leather buttonhole. 2 Generally, the buttonhole of the button is used to sew the buttonhole by the patch method, but no dummy stitch is needed in the sewing process. The method is to put a rectangular original fabric in the middle of the button part, the front side of which faces the front side of the fabric, and then sew two stitches according to the length of the buttonhole, and cut a pair of diagonal triangles, as shown in Fig. 17 . Then put the patch into the garment, sew the buttonhole edge and overlap the attached cloth on the plane, as shown in Figure 17b. Finally, turn the garment over and cross the top of the button, as shown in Figure 17c. 3 The sewing machine can be used to lock the buttonhole.
Sixth, the chemical fiber suede sewing method also has the following three kinds: 1 ordinary welt: first fold the edge of 38mm, and then glue it to the garment, as shown in Figure 18 a. 2 The hem with the style of the casual wear should be trimmed along the hem, and then the crease should be applied close to the edge to prevent the fabric from stretching during sewing, as shown in Figure 18b. 3 The outer edge is first added with a strip of 13mm width on the welt line, and then the opposite side of the welt is stitched with a flat seam, as shown in Figure 18c.
Due to some unique properties of leather raw materials, process requirements, equipment, etc. are also different from general clothing in the process of sewing garments. For example, the seams of leather garments are generally not hot, but a special glue is used to stick the seams with the pieces, and then tapped with a hammer, which is called "knocking seams" in the process. Generally, the side seams, the collars, and the like on both sides of the top are knocked open. The seams between the leathers of the front and rear garments are sometimes carried out using a process of front-facing lines. Which process is used for sewing, depending on the style and process requirements.
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